You can’t miss Badaboom while strolling along Howard Avenue this fall. With its spiffy, bright-blue exterior, elevated outdoor seating, and general open-arms aura, the place stands out for sure in this relatively un-bustling patch of southwest Bed-Stuy.
And you definitely don’t want to miss it, either. Opened in late June by Brooklyn buddies Henry Glucroft and Charles Gerbier, Badaboom is a friendly neighborhood bistro that doubles as a wine bar (or maybe it’s the other way around?) with an easy, appealing menu, and what Glucroft calls “a really interesting reserve list that I’ve been able to help build up over the years.”
If you live nearby and like to eat and/or drink, get ready to be a regular.
Glucroft and Gerbier both have experience keeping people fed, tipsy, and happy. The former runs both Henry’s and Sunrise/Sunset in Bushwick, the latter is responsible for Frog Wine Bar over on Marcus Garvey. But Badaboom, their first operation together as business partners, represents a pretty big step up for them in the restaurant game.
Where the magic happens (Photo by Scott Lynch)
The best decision they’ve made so far? Installing a big rotisserie oven right up front in an open kitchen, so the first things you see when you walk in are those slowly spinning rows of ever-more-glistening chickens. This was enticing on a warm summer evening. Imagine what a welcome sight it will be come October or November.
Half roasted chicken with potatoes, $32 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
It’s not just a good aesthetic choice, either. Badaboom sends out a magnificent roasted bird, available as either half or a whole, hacked and stacked high with skin that crackles and so, so much juice, most of which gets sopped up by a mound of charred potatoes.
Steak frites, $38 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
You’ll see these chickens on almost every table, but the Badaboom steak frites is just as good—a seven-ounce beauty of a bavette that’s remarkably tender while sacrificing none of the cut’s funky flavor. Dredge your beef through the accompanying crock of bearnaise for maximum, borderline-decadent pleasure. The fries are great, too.
Chicken cordon bleu, $34 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Even more decadent is the chicken cordon bleu, a pounded-out breast sporting one of the crispiest crusts you’ve ever seen, all encasing slabs of ham and an insane amount of sharp, melted Alpine cheese. Cut this beast open, and it all just oozes out onto your plate. A sprightly salad provides a nice, bright counterpoint to the richness.
Asparagus sauce gribiche, $16 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Even Badaboom’s vegetable sides are unapologetically loaded with fatty, peppy extras. The haricot vert comes drenched in butter, the roasted carrots sitting upon an oily mound of chimichurri, and the asparagus topped with enough caper and cornichon-laden gribiche for a decent sized egg salad sandwich.
Mousse au Chocolate, $12 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
For dessert, there’s either rice pudding or a hefty scoop of one of the best chocolate mousses (light and fluffy division) in town. Glasses of wine average about $15, and most of the bottles—there are at least 50 on the list—hover around $70. It’s all very easy to like. I could easily hang out and eat here once a week or so without getting bored.
Badaboom is located at 421 Bainbridge Street, at the corner of Howard Avenue, and is currently open on Wednesday through Sunday from 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
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